If Bollinger is the classic black dress, then Billecart-Salmon is the quintessential button-down white shirt — less dramatic, precise, and easy to wear. Based on almost equal parts of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, and aged in steel from beginning to end, the Brut Réserve leans towards lightness over richness with pretty notes of fresh pear, white flowers, and cold stone.