Related to the Listán Negro and Listán Prieto grapes of the Canary Islands, Pais thrives in Chile's far out southern valleys where it captures the delicious spirit of ancient winemaking. Most Chilean Pais comes from the Maule region, but this expression by Viña Laurent is from an area even more remote, and further south, called the Itata Valley. Here, poor granitic soils coupled with an arid climate create a viticultural haven for old-vine, ungrafted Pais. Every drop of this bottle is made with 150 year-old vines!

Hand-picked and fermented with wild yeasts, Polemico (meaning Controversial), is far from the watery and lackluster styles of Pais which I'm accustomed to. On the nose it's lively with crushed berries and a Syrah-like spice, and woos the palate with its Pinot-like robe. With melt-away tannins and friendly tang, go ahead and put a chill on it and haven another glass!