The wine world is more dynamic than ever, constantly keeping us on our wine toes with fresh faces, quirky grapes, and curious colors. And, although, the rush of novelty is thrilling, it feels good to pause, refocus, and come home to the classics.

A Becky Wasserman selection, Dominique Gruhier made a splash in France with his fragrant red wines, pretty Pinot Noirs from the hills of Épineuil, just northeast of Chablis. Certified organic, he dialed back his natural winemaking methods in 2006 (after he couldn't drink his own wines because they were so full of funk). Sourced from two parcels on Chablis' right bank, aged in a combination of barrel and steel, Dominique's Chablis wines have a certain flair about them. They start off soft and custardy, then energize the palate with a friendly smack of cold stony acidity.