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Bourgogne Aligoté by François Carillon | 2017


Aligoté makes me think of the late 1980s ad campaign “Pork, the Other White Meat.” I immediately think, “Aligoté, the Other White Grape.” The slogan was genius, and pork sales rose 20% in the United States by 1991.

A historical Burgundian grape, Aligoté is experiencing a 21st century renaissance, and rightfully so, thanks to the producers who have earned the patience with this finicky, late-ripening grape and to the wine writer, Ms. Alice Feiring who penned the cutting-edge articles, “The Underdog; Aligoté” and “Aligoté’s Return” (almost ten years ago!) Like Chardonnay, Aligoté is a neutral grape with high acidity and a fine messenger of Burgundian terroir.

Passed down from generation to generation since the early 1600s, the Carillon name in Burgundy has deep clout, and starting with the 2010 vintage, the estate was divided between the sons (both superb producers). This 2017 Aligoté is from François and is a top-notch classic, bottling-up the best of Burgundian terroir with fennel seed, white stones, lemon skin, spiced apple, and whiffs of toasted hazelnut. So, put aside the "beef" and have premium Aligoté all to yourself!