The Jaboulet family had a magnificent run in the 20th century, until the 1990s, when a string of premature accidents caused the family to lose its magic touch. As a result, the quality of the wines suffered, and Jaboulet was not so Jaboulet. The family sold the estate in 2006 to the Freys, co-owners of Champagne's Billecart-Salmon and sole owners of Château La Lagune of Bordeaux, whose secret weapon is Caroline Frey, Raised in Champagne, Caroline is one of France's best kept wine secrets. When she took over the reins at Jaboulet she implemented biodynamic growing and minimal intervention cellar practices.

The Maison Bleue is essentially baby Chapelle, first made in 2015 (replacing the former La Petite Chapelle bottling). It's technically a second label, made from the younger vines or "the stuff" that doesn't go into La Chapelle. Pure Syrah, aged in 20% new oak, its 14% alcohol powers the wine with blackberry liqueur, licorice, and smoky stone, and as wine critic Mr. Dunnuck says, "smoking good." We typically don't discuss points, but the consistency among critics for the 2016 La Maison Bleue is simply impressive. It looks, smells, and tastes like Caroline Frey has put the magic touch back on Jaboulet.