There's no question that the wines of FX Pichler are stunning. Currently Lucas Pichler (Franz Xaver's son) is in control of the estate. Recently, they made a bold move, and decided to leave the winemaker association, Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus. Thus, the winery will no longer use the association's classification categories of ripeness for dry white wines: Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd, starting with the 2020 vintage. So, this is one of the last FX Pichler bottlings you will see with the ripest "Smaragd" label. Out of the entire Pichler collection, the Smaragd wines are the most concentrated and powerful, matching the intensity of a Grand Cru wine. A cooler site, Steinertal is enjoyable in its youth with succulent yellow peach and plum, then zips you with a lip-smack of acidity. This will benefit from a being a few degrees warmer, so leave the wine on the table, and let the magic of Pichler unfold in the glass!