Located in Edna Valley, in the southern fringe of San Luis Obispo County, John Alban was an early advocate of California’s “Rhône Ranger” movement, along with Randall Grahm of old Bonny Doon, Bob Lindquist of Qupé, and the late Josh Jensen of Calera. Thanks to them, they revived Rhône varieties like Viognier, Roussanne, Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvédre that were fading away in favor of the more fashionable grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Living in a rented greenhouse in the 1980s, John Alban spent 7 years searching all over the Central Coast for the perfect spot to plant Syrah all over the Central Coast. He found a little ridge, which he called “Reva’s Ridge,” a play on words, paying homage to the former Kentucky Derby winner (Riva Ridge) and his mom (Reva). The soil is sandy with pockets of alkaline white chalks that give an unruly freshness to John’s wines and an enchanting sanguine character, reminiscent of great Côte-Rôtie. Aged for more than 3 years in oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered the 2019 Reva is unforgivingly “in your face” with every delicious bite of Syrah—molten blackberry, sweet-and-sour plum, graphite, candied bacon, fennel dust, and rose. In classic Alban style, the palate is visceral and comforting, yet lifted by smoky hairs of acidity. It exemplifies power and elegance, rolled into one and reminds us that California is an excellent choice for Rhône grapes, especially when it’s Alban Syrah. ~Allegra A