As contemporary palates shift towards lighter and drier wines, fortified wines have experienced a decline in both consumption and production. In popular fortified wine regions, like the Douro Valley, Jerez, and Madeira, progressive winemakers have adapted to the shift and are producing exquisite styles of dry wines.

Madeira, a volcanic island, is home to over 2,000 growers but fewer than 10 producers. Its dramatic landscape features thousands of terraced vine plots, known locally as poios, cascading down steep hillsides. While Tinta Negra Mole dominates with over two-thirds of the plantings, it’s the island’s noble grapes—Malvasia, Bual, Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, and Bastardo—that truly enchant and have captivated wine enthusiasts worldwide. In the early 1990s, Manuela Barbeito began passing the duties of her company to her son, Ricardo Freitas. Ricardo brought a profound respect for Madeira's classical roots, but he also injected new energy and innovative ideas into the winery. His approach, including the creation of this dry Verdelho, solidifies his reputation as Madeira’s foremost champion of progression, and as one famous critic calls him, “a game changer.”

Ricardo’s dry white comes from Casa do Lanço property on the northern side of Madeira, near São Vicente. Named "Vinhas do Lanço," it is harvested from Verdelho grapes grown at different altitudes. The grapes undergo the traditional “lagar” foot-trodden method, and then the wine is aged in a combination of neutral French barrique and stainless steel tanks. On the nose, "Vinhas do Lanço" is reminiscent of an elite Bourgogne Blanc with zesty citrus, delicate cream, and subtle vanilla toasties. On the palate, though, its extreme terroir reveals itself with gutsy minerality, a magnificent mix of sweet, salty, and stony. Also, green tropical fruits begin to emerge with tangy, cold peaches and pears, then a lightning of acidity energizes the finish. With less than 75 cases produced (virtually non-existent!), we're not sure if we'll see or taste this again, but today, it's a very special wine, worth every Euro. ~Allegra A