Marta Rovira is the heart and soul of Mas d'en Gil. An industrial engineer by trade, she returned to her family's estate in 2004 and immediately introduced organic farming, which eventually became their current biodynamic way. Coma Vella is the "premier cru" of the estate, planted with older vines (30-60 years) of Garnacha Peluda and Garnacha del País. Aged in a combination of big old barrels and smaller ones, it's commandingly elegant without sacrificing a drop of velvety fruit, sweet earth, or spice. It's exactly the type of wine I crave, when the holidays roll in.