Owned by Gabriella Burlotto (of the namesake Barolo family) and Franco Bianco (of Barbaresco), Castello di Verduno’s secret weapon is their winemaker, Mario Andrion whose winemaking seems to do the impossible in Barolo — master elegance over rusticity without using any shortcuts in the cellar. In short, Verduno’s wines are staunchly traditional, favoring long macerations, large older barrels, native yeasts, and minimal SO2. This entry-level Barolo bottling is from unique Verduno soils called the “Marne di Sant’Agata,” composed of silts, sands, clay, and limestone. Sourced from two vineyards planted over thirty years ago and aged for 32 months in Slavonian Botti, the 2018 soars from the glass with pretty reds: red currants, red raspberries, and summer strawberries. On the palate, it’s more soft than rough, but still Nebbiolo to-the-bone with its intrigue of sandalwood, cardamom, and rosy stone. Bottled without fining or filtration, it’s Barolo acoustic, pitch perfect and all. ~AA