Didier Dagueneau Blanc, Etc. Vin de France | 2023

Formerly called Blanc Fumé de Pouilly, Blanc, Etc. got a new name when Didier’s son, Louis-Benjamin, withdrew the wine from the Pouilly-Fumé appellation. True to his late father’s non-conformist sensibility, he has labeled the wines Vin de France since 2017. The introduction to Dagueneau’s idiosyncratic house style, Etc. comes from the estate’s younger vines, planted across a mix of soils and expositions. Fermented and aged in tank, it’s less broad than its sibling wines but still delivers that Dagueneau spirit: sunbeam citrus into electric peach, with a diamond-cut invigorating finish. ~Allegra Angelo