Girolamo Etna Rosso 'a Rina | 2022

Giuseppe Russo was studying piano when his father, Girolamo, died in 2005. He came home to Mt. Etna, took over the family vines, and began converting the sites to organic farming. Located on Etna’s north side near Passopisciaro, the “‘a Rina” is a blend of Giuseppe’s sites intended to be more drinkable when young. As so many single Contrada wines have flooded the market, it’s nice to see an excellent Etna Rosso that reverts to basics: blending (and is at friendly price point). Roughly 90% Nerello Mascalese with 10% Nerello Cappuccio, the vines range from 20 to 100 years of age, hovering between 650 and 800 meters. Picked in late October, the yields are low, the grapes are mostly de-stemmed, and the skins macerate with the juice for about ten days before pressing. Aged in 26HL (2,600-liter) barrels and concrete, the wine is deceptively translucent on the palate, but deep with flavor. Wild berries and camphor and sweet herbs are just a few of the high notes, packaged by tannins that are firm but malleable. Russo has quietly become one of our favorite producers, because these strut their volcanic quirkiness, but are, still easy-to-share. ~Allegra A