Istine Chianti Classico Vigna Cavarchione, Gran Selezione Gaiole | 2021

Angela Fronti of Istine makes pretty expressions of Sangiovese that sometimes feel more French than Italian. I love the Cavarchione because it's the outlier in her collection. It's the most hedonistic and shows phenomenally well right out of the bottle, like this near perfect 2021. The vineyard, located in Gaiole (not Radda), was planted fifteen years ago at a generous altitude of 420 meters. Certified organic, a lengthy 45-day maceration with the skins and fermentation in cement precede a year of aging in a combination of 2,000L and 3,000L Slavonian oak. This is a Brunello drinker's Chianti Classico, but it's Sangiovese to-the-bone with burly balsamic fruits that push the limit of ripeness. Dark but bright, dense but buoyant, big but light, Sangiovese's juxtaposition is irresistible and brilliant. I don't consume a lot of red, but I could easily have a bottle all to myself. ~Allegra A