Julian Haart Riesling, rote Erden | 2024

I LOVE Riesling when it starts to cool off, and oddly, Riesling always seems to taste better outside. I also love the wines of Julian Haart, because they taste like they’re dipped in and dripping with this glossy, iridescent-like minerality. They are intense, but they have a coziness that keeps them from austerity. 

Trained under Riesling masters Egon Müller and Klaus Peter Keller, Julian and Nadine Haart farm and make wine in the Mosel, but this bottle tells a different story. The Haarts traded their Schubertslay—a steep, old-vine parcel in the heart of the Goldtröpfchen—to Keller in exchange for two miniscule plots in the Rheinhessen’s eye-candy sites of Frauenberg and Zellertal am Schwarzen Herrgott to make "rote Erden." Essentially a baby Grand Cru, it sprawls across the palate—electric, glassy, and cut with sour-patch minerals that make you shiver. Riesling weather, indeed. ~Allegra A