Moreau-Naudet Chablis Pargues Vieilles Vignes | 2022

Pargues is one of my favorite vineyard sites, a one-hectare lieu-dit that sits on a ridge between the 1er Crus Montmains and Vosgros. My first experience with this site was Romain Collet's stunning 2014 vintage, which had the power and grace of an elite Premier Cru. Then, around the same time, I was introduced to the cult wines of Moreau-Naudet. They were unique, textural lemon bombs, zippered tightly fine lines of acidity and icy white minerals. After Stéphane Moreau's untimely death in 2016, there were questions and concerns regarding quality, but today, under the watch of Virginie (his wife), these wines hold their first-class status. The new release of Pargues is an expression of vines that are now over 70-years old. Still made with native yeasts, long contact with the lees, and partial barrel aging, the juxtaposition of generosity and tautness is unparalleled. Farmed and produced by just a handful of growers, Pargues remains one of Burgundy's coolest values, especially when it's in the hands of Moreau-Naudet. ~Allegra A