Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay | 2022

A few weeks ago, our yearly allocation of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey's 2023s landed. Every year, I hide a few bottles from the vintage. Then, I forget about them. Then, when I’m moving boxes around the cellar, I remember them, like this 2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay.

The measure of a great winemaker isn't the gilded Grand Cru. It's a wine like this. The very un-basic, basic stuff. If there's one word that defines PYCM's whites, it's tautness. Upon release, they're coiled like the tight curls of a 1980s perm. Give them a year, though, and they become more relaxed. The minerality bends, the fruit shines, and they become stunning from nose-to- palate, backwards and forwards. Curious about this exact blend, I texted my colleague, who reached out to Pierre-Yves: his reply came back immediately: "10% Puligny, 40% Chassagne, 20% Saint-Aubin, and 30% Meursault." Puligny. Chassagne. Saint-Aubin. Meursault. No shortcuts. Just fruit from Chardonnay's greatest villages, for a Supercuts kind-of price ;) -Allegra A