Gil Berzal Recoveco San Julián, Rioja Alavesa | 2019

We’re huge fans of Rioja Alavesa, Rioja’s smallest and northernmost subregion, a paradise of old vines and rocky soils. From a single parcela planted in 1970, San Julián captures the wonderfully exotic side of Alavesa. Mostly Tempranillo, it croons with violets and cherries, then unfolds into purple licorice and warm coffee spice. There’s real grip here, too, a reminder of Alavesa’s sneaky power, shaped by its combination of altitude and rocky soils. If you’re a fan of Alavesa producers like Luis Cañas, Bideona, or Telmo Rodriguez’s Lanzaga, then add Gil Berzal to your list. ~Allegra Angelo