Sordo Barolo, Gabutti Riserva | 1999

From the Tortona hills to the Atla Langa to the Langhe, the Sordo estate farms more than 120 acres across Piedmont, but its stronghold is Barolo. Based in the Castiglione Falletto, the cellar manages an extraordinary arsenal of Barolo crus across eight communes, with crown jewel vineyards in Monvigliero, Parussi, Monprivato, La Serra, Perno, Ravera, and Gabutti. Today, Paola Sordo leads the estate as the fourth generation and is the first woman at its helm, carrying forward the family’s commitment to patient macerations and aging in Slavonian oak. The wines are traditional, but far from stern. They rage with aromatics and lean supple rather than rugged. From top to bottom, Sordo remains one of Piedmont’s most overlooked estates (shh!) Gabutti is on the western edge of Serralunga d’Alba, arguably Barolo’s most prestigious commune, known for its “muscle meets perfume” persona. You won’t see Gabutti a lot on labels, because it’s in the hands of a small circle of producers, including the legendary Cappellano estate. I had the treat of tasting Sordo’s 1999 Gabutti Riserva with Paola, fully expecting it to taste past its prime. Wow, was I wrong. Side-by-side, it completely triumphed the 2012 Gabutti Riserva, unfurling in generous spirals of spiced fruit and floral earth. I wrote: “A bit animal in a good way, bloody dusty rose, still freshness of fruit and melty tannin,” followed by a frantic scribble of stars. You can enjoy this bottle right now, but it also has plenty of zip, which will last another two to three years. For this age, for this price, this wine is a humble bargain. ~Allegra Angelo