The Hilt Sta. Estate Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills | 2024

I know. California Chardonnay. You’re picturing shoulder pads, Miami Vice, big hair. But the Hilt Estate 2024 has Meursault moves for an insanely fair price. Slip it into a blind Burgundy lineup and watch eyes balls double. This Sta. Rita Hills estate bottling made by Matt Dees zips like a tennis ball with all its limey yellows, chestnut hairs, and corn husk. It’s got that sulfurous wink too, which kept me interested for three days, as I tested its open-bottle, next-day stamina. It kept getting better. The Hilt, 2024, you are a rare beauty. ~Allegra Angelo