Voirin-Jumel L'Assemblage | NV

Formerly called Brut Tradition, the new flagship cuvée from Voirin-Jumel is my favorite Champagne for the price. With its sleek new look and more sophisticated feel, from the British racing green foil to the egg cream-textured label, L’Assemblage feels luxurious. The blend is now Pinot Noir from the Marne Valley and Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, with no more Meunier in the mix. Fifth-generation sisters Julie and Pauline Voirin were the brains behind the makeover, and they prove that excellent Champagne can still exist without an exuberant price tag. The dosage has been lowered to 6 grams per liter, which highlights the quality of the fruit. To me, with its oozy red fruits, the wine drinks more Pinot-forward, even though Chardonnay makes up an equal share. Cherry biscuit and pastry flakes, follow into sea salt and a chalky spice. It’s more vinous than linear, which I love, and the finish is savory, crunchy, and dry. On-and-off serving this for twenty years, I’m energized by the Domaine’s upgrade. Inside and out, Voirin-Jumel is a total winner. ~Allegra Angelo