Yves Delporte Champagne Blanc des Blancs | NV

“Grower Champagne” had a big moment in the early 2000s, when importers began seeking family-owned, hyper-local wines: fine wine’s natural answer to the culinary world’s “Farm-to-Table.” Today, many houses marketed as “Grower Champagne” have shifted from RM to NM, or Négociant-Manipulant, meaning they source more than 5% of their grapes to increase production or expand their range. Next time a restaurant says “Grower,” peek at the back label. RM guarantees the technical story.

The Delporte family has been making its own Champagne since 1961. Production remains under 5,000 cases, with vineyards in two prestigious Grand Crus—Tours-sur-Marne and Bouzy—plus Bisseuil, an excellent Premier Cru. This is a Blanc de Blancs but remember: that does not automatically mean Chardonnay. It can be made from any authorized white Champagne grape or grapes. Most are Chardonnay because it is the most noble and widely planted; the other authorized varieties include Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris, locally called Fromenteau.

Delporte’s Blanc de Blancs is unique because its Chardonnay comes from Bouzy and Bisseuil, in the warmer Reims area. This is not your typical Côte des Blancs Chardonnay chasing chalk-and-laser-beam lightsabers. It reminds me of walking through Saint-Germain at 6am, happily intoxicated by the cozy smells of the corner pâtisserie: paper-thin croissant flakes, crisscross apple tarts, and warm baguette straight from the oven. There is freshness too, plus just a shy oxidative note—not the full-blown Bit-O-Honey versions that overwhelm the fruit and Champagne’s sparkl-y minerality. A total people pleaser for the price, and a friendly reminder that real value still exists—even in a region as prestigious as Champagne. ~Allegra Angelo