Fabien Coche seems to do the impossible: make Chardonnay taste rich and light, all at the same time. A first-rate example of high-class White Burgundy, his 2016 Saint-Aubin has the right amount of cream and texture on the mid-palate, then finishes with salty lemon, winter chestnut, and crumbles of chalky stone. Pair this with decadent seafood, ricotta gnocchi, or anything golden and crispy. ~AA