Borgogno Derthona | 2022

An ancient Piedmontese variety, essentially revived by one man, Walter Massa of Vigneti Massa, the rise and stay of Timorasso is a good thing. Just like Nerelleo Mascalese of Sicily and Mencía of Northern Spain, Timorasso is no longer a trendy grape, it's a reborn classic. Thanks to Massa, several producers, like Borgogno, followed suit and have maintained Timorasso's integrity, and of course, there are others who make lackluster expressions that taste flat and bitter. Not Borgogno. Borgogno's vines comes from a southern facing calcareous slope in the village of Monleale, part of the greater Tortona hills. Like all Borgogno wines, the farming is organic, followed by spontaneous fermentation in cement, then moderate aging on the lees in steel. Timorasso reminds me of Riesling-Chablis love child. There's the honey-pear and apple crunch and white flowers (Riesling). Then, there's the lemon lees cream appeal (Chablis). Yet, it's more powerful, more Italian, with long texture and softened acidity. Timorasso's strongest asset, besides its ability to age for decades, is its versatility with food. This is a red lover's white and surely something everyone can enjoy, when there's a little bit of everything on the table. ~Allegra A