Château Palmer Historical XIXth Century Wine L.20.16

Certified Demeter biodynamic since 2018, Château Palmer is one of the most innovative and influential estates in Bordeaux, moving towards the polyculture model in which gardens, forests, animals, and vines live cordially in a 100-hectare estate. Many enthusiasts recognize Palmer for their Grand Vin and the more youthful, Alter Ego de Palmer, but there’s also a rare white and this elusive XIX. You’ll notice that there’s no mention of Palmer on the midnight blue label. Inspired by the traditional nineteenth century practice of adding Hermitage (a Syrah wine) to fortify the color and structure of Bordeaux clarets, winemaker and CEO, Thomas Duroux set out to replicate this fantasy recipe after tasting a mystical 1869 Palmer and wondering if the bottle had been “Hermitaged.”  So, every winter Thomas and his technical director, Sabrina Pernet, travel to the Rhône region, where they identify the Syrah grapes which combine with the estate’s Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, representing about 10% of the final blend. To this day, they are the only 2 people who know the source and the producer of the secret Syrah.

Tested and perfected since 2005, the L.20.16 represents the seventh expression of this wine which has become an eye-candy signature of the Château. It’s a rare wine that confronts appellation law and breaks free from the norm, baring the very simple (and misleading) “Vin de France” label. Hence, the bottle does not carry a vintage, rather a suggestive lot number. With around 5,000 produced, the wine is like, “Biting into a Cloud,” according to Duroux. I wish I could say that I’ve had this wine and write an honest tasting note, but I’d be lying. I’ll have to put one aside for a special day, but then again, any day is special when you’re drinking XIX.  ~Allegra A