Domaine Migot Côtes de Toul Vin Gris | 2023

Every spring, we eagerly await the new release of Domaine Migot’s ethereal Vin Gris. About a 2-hour drive west of Alsace, the Côtes de Toul is a remote wine appellation in the Lorraine region that prduced fashionable wines during the renaissance centuries. Then, hardships due to phylloxera and WWII literally wiped-out most of the agriculture. After the war, the Côtes de Toul encountered competition from accessible regions growing in popularity, like the Languedoc, that produced tons of wine at much cheaper prices. Since the 1950s, the Toul has been slowly climbing uphill thanks to climate change. In a new wine era where erratic weather is the evil disrupter, it remains a safe place for low-alcohol Pinot Noir and Gamay, with still only 100HA of vines. Camille Migot, who began making wine in 2012, represents an ambitious younger generation, who are choosing country life over city life. They are organically farming, doing everything by hand, and reverting to simple, time-honored methods in the cellar, collectively leading their very own, cultural renaissance. 

Camille’s family is as Toul as it gets. He's the product of 13 generations of farmers and currently farms just five hectares. Equal parts Pinot Noir with Gamay, his Vin Gris is over-the-top juicy yet buttoned-up with a shivery acidity. Certified organic and made with natural yeasts, this is as lean and flavorful as it gets. Last year, I was kicking myself that I didn’t order more cases. So this year, I doubled-up, for the wine will only get better as it fleshes out its pointy bones over the summer. And it doesn’t really matter if it's summer drinking weather or fall or winter, because for this generation, it’s pretty perfect in the Côtes de Toul. ~Allegra A