La Stoppa Riostoppa | 2017

Just over an hour drive, heading south, from Milan, is the village of Rivergaro and home of the beloved La Stoppa estate. Founded in the late 19th century, Elena Pantaleoni, along with head vigneron Giulio Armani, are La Stoppa's current gatekeepers. Since Elena's father purchased the property in the 1970s, the wines have slowly become "Emilian." Bonarda and Barbera plantings took charge, farming became organic, and winemaking followed the zero-zero philosophy (nothing added, nothing subtracted). In short, these are dynamic wines, at times, unpredictable and push the limit of volatility, in a good way. 

A fairly new bottling, first produced with the 2014 vintage, Riostoppa takes its name from a small stream passing the estate. It's the outlier of La Stoppa's line-up, because it's neither Barbera nor Bonarda, the estate's strongholds. The backbone is oddly Merlot with other Bordeaux historic varieties, like Saint-Macaire, but no Cabernet Sauvignon. A long 40-day maceration with the skins breeds an intensely aromatic wine that's hard to wrap your brain around. Out of the gate, it races with wild berries, black olive, blue raspberry marker, iodine, and rosemary char. At first, I hate it, then I looooove it, then I love-hate it, all over again. In classic La Stoppa style, the finish is like a Kriek Lambic and energizes the palate with its overtly juicy fruit. Reaching for another glass, I'm confused, perplexed, but intrigued and totally engaged. I've forgotten that I'm tasting Merlot, and that's the magic of La Stoppa. ~Allegra A