Mas d'en Gil Priorat, Bellmunt | 2021

Wherever I go, I carry the wines of Mas d’en Gil with me. Twenty-plus years ago, working as a junior sommelier, I served a bottle of Mas d’en Gil to hospitality legend, Danny Meyer and his friend, American novelist and wine enthusiast, Jay McInerney. Boasting a list of well-priced, underrated classics from Piedmont to Burgundy, they stunned me when they selected a Spanish wine from Priorat. The bottle was Mas d’en Gil’s Coma Vella 2003, and since that evening, the brand's brick red foil and clean typeface label stick with me.

In 1998, Pere Rovira Carbonell purchased the 19th century Mas d’en Gil estate. Reviving its name, he passed his duties onto his daughters, Marta and Pilar, who have been the vibrant soul of the estate since 2008. Together, they challenged Priorat’s notorious big and beefy image by implementing biodynamic farming, along with less oaky, less extracted winemaking methods in the cellar. Today, their long-term efforts are evident, especially in their Bellmunt vineyard, which means Beautiful Mountain of Priorat. Planted to Grenache and Carignan in the 1990s, Bellmunt is the baby red of the estate. Considering its meticulous farming, exceptionally low yields (30HL/HA), and thoughtful integration of different barrel origins (French, Hungarian, and Slovenian) and sizes (225L to 5000L), this is one of Priorat's greatest values. More pretty than robust, the brambly side of Grenache pops with dusty raspberries and cherry ham, then seductive Carignan sprinkles in its exotic red sweetness and spice. Naturally high in alcohol (14.5%), a cushion of acidity coupled with mellow tannins make for a pleasantly soft finish. So, think like a pro, and drink unexpectedly. ~Allegra A