Ronchi di Cialla Schioppettino di Cialla | 1999

A long time ago, Schioppettino was cool, admired for its quirky personality, wild herb aromatics and Syrah-like spices. As Phylloxera raged in the 19th century, it destroyed the majority of Schioppettino vines, and when it was time to replant, farmers chose the easier-to-grow, and easier selling, Cabernet and Merlots. Schioppettino went Poof, and Friulian bureaucrats considered it extinct, removing it from the list of approved Friulian varieties. In 1970, Dona and Paolo Rapuzzi were tired of selling typewriters. They visited the town of Prepotto and admired its unusual olive trees, a sign of prosperity and mild weather. Disinterested in planting international grapes, they hunted for native varieties and uncovered seventy vines of Schioppettino. After bull-headily convincing authorities to authorities to renew the grape's status, they repropagated vines in the Cialla Valley, where a high percentage of limestone and adequate rainfall make Cialla a unique terroir within the greater Collio Orientali del Friuli. Their first Schioppettino vintage was 1977, and today every vine in the world traces back to the Rapuzzi farm, which received its own zonal appellation "Cialla" in 1995. Schioppettino is Cialla. Cialla is Schioppettino.

A huge perk for anyone seeking out wines with age, Ronchi di Cialla cellars a considerable amount of their inventory, releasing wines as they wish. I've tasted several old vintages of Schioppettino, and every vintage is mind-bogglingly different, proving the grape's secret multiple personalities. As for this 1999, it crackles with violets, oozes with meat and white pepper, and finishes with sweet dark chocolatey earth. The tannins are medium gritty, holding on for life, while dried Bordeaux-like berries and plums move to the forefront. Enjoy now or hold for another 2-3 years. ~Allegra A