Stein Rosé Secco | 2021

So, what's Pinot Noir doing with Cabernet and Merlot in ice-cold Riesling land? A rebel at heart, one of Ulli Stein's game-changing responses to climate change was re-evaluating the Mosel's lower, and now, much warmer slopes. Once trumped by Riesling, he's one of a handful of growers in the region planting later ripening black grapes and making compelling rosé wines and reds (he, even, has some Sangiovese vines). This 2021 Secco is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir with 20% Cabernet and Merlot, fermented twice in stainless-steel tanks then bottled. Despite its deep ruby hue, it's mineral over fruit, freshness over process, prettiness over glamor. Just like Ulli, it's eccentric and unapologetic, yet totally magnetic. ~Allegra A