Valdicava Rosso di Montalcino | 2022

The wines of Valdicava were historically known for their fierce tannins and extra-long aging capacity. Located in Montalcino’s coolest sector, their mix of clay, sand, and limestones breed fruit of enormous intensity. Vincenzo Abbruzzzese took control of his grandparents’ estate in the lates 1980s with the goal of matching intensity with finesse. He eliminated all chemicals in the vineyard, started farming biodynamically, and drastically reduced his yields per plant. After a decade of improvement, the wines became softer and fruitier, striking the perfect balance between fruit and structure.  

A larger-than-life icon of the early 2000s, there’s not much literature, today, on the Valdicava estate. The new releases are easily scooped-up by top restaurants and collectors. Today, PierFilippo, Vincenzo’s son oversees Valdicava into its next chapter. I had the chance to speak with PierFilippo at Vinya. Tall and striking, just like the wines, Valdicava is very much alive and at the top of its game, evident in this stunning Rosso. Newly arrived, the 2022 is Sangiovese to-the-bone with rich and rustic red fruits, sizeable tannin, and a lingering, pretty acidity. Worth decanting, after an hour the wine pulls out the red carpet with silky balsamic, wild oregano, and warm terra cotta. It’s impossible to tell if there’s new French oak (and that’s a good thing) as the fruit, earth, tannin, and spice melt into each other on the palate. Valdicava Rosso 2022, it’s not the most refined Rosso on the market, but wow, it’s surely one of the most delicious. ~Allegra A